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Spain's Serrano Ham Dispute Highlights Clash Over Quality Labels

The row over jamón serrano is no longer just a technical argument buried in paperwork. It has turned into something much bigger: a debate about identity, about food, and about who gets to define authenticity in one of Spain's most recognizable products. At the center of it all are the producers of Jamón de Trevélez, a protected product made in the mountains of Granada. They say Spain's Ministry of Agriculture is still backing a new PGI for "Jamón Serrano", even after a court ruling questioned the way the process was handled. And for the people in Trevélez, that is not some minor administrative issue. They see it as a direct threat to the meaning of quality labels themselves. That is really where the tension starts. Right now, Jamón Serrano is protected in the EU as a Traditional Specialty Guaranteed, which focuses on a traditional method of production. The proposed change would move it to Protected Geographical Indication status. On paper, that may sound like stronge...