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| Pata Negra Ham |
For centuries, carving legs of Iberian ham at bars, restaurants, and events has been male-dominated. The artistry of slicing thin pieces of exquisitely cured ham, often a symbol of Spain’s rich culinary heritage, has long been associated with men. But in recent years, the world of ham carving has experienced a shift, as a new generation of women steps forward to claim their place at the slicing table.
A Tradition Steeped in History
Jamón Ibérico, or Iberian ham, has been a staple of Spanish cuisine since Roman times. Considered one of the finest hams in the world, it’s produced from the Iberian pig, known for its ability to create deeply flavorful meat due to its acorn-rich diet. This prized product comes in different types, but none are as prestigious as Pata Negra ham, made from purebred Iberian pigs that roam freely in oak forests and feast on acorns. The ham is known for its rich, nutty flavor and melt-in-your-mouth texture, and no Spanish gathering is complete without its presence.
Slicing a leg of Jamón Ibérico requires great skill. The task is not simply about cutting meat; it is about preserving the quality and flavor of the ham while presenting it in a way that delights the senses. The technique involves carving the ham in a particular way that balances the meat’s marbled fat and lean parts, ensuring that each slice carries the rich, umami-packed flavor of the acorn-fed pig. The art of slicing Jamón Ibérico has thus become highly respected, with professionals and even competitive carvers vying for the best cortador, or ham slicer.
A Changing Landscape
Historically, the profession has been dominated by men, primarily because they were the ones who slaughtered and butchered the pigs, as well as ran charcuterie shops, known as jamonerías. Men were also the ones who served customers in restaurants and bars, and so naturally, they were the ones who became skilled ham slicers. The term cortador, or cutter, was initially gender-neutral, but the female equivalent, cortadora, referred to a machine rather than a person.
However, in recent years, a new generation of women has emerged, taking their place in this traditionally male-dominated field. One such woman is Raquel Acosta, a 31-year-old from Spain who has risen to prominence as one of the country’s top ham carvers. Initially working her way up in the restaurant industry, Acosta was introduced to the art of ham carving by a friend, and she quickly became captivated by the craft. “I want to be like him, I want his job,” Acosta remembers thinking about her mentor, a successful male ham carver. More than a decade later, she owns her ham carving business and regularly participates in events globally, even cutting Pata Negra ham for the famous actor Robert de Niro.
Multiple factors contribute to Acosta’s success: her dedication, talent, and ability to navigate a competitive industry. As she honed her skills by participating in carving competitions, Acosta developed a reputation for her precision and creativity. She now commands top-tier fees, earning upwards of €1,000 per day at events, excluding the cost of the ham. Interestingly, as demand for female carvers grows, Acosta is assembling an all-female team, responding to requests from clients who want women to carve at their events.
Breaking Through Stereotypes
Acosta’s rise in the male-dominated world of ham carving highlights the broader shift toward gender equality in the culinary and hospitality industries. Yet, there are still barriers to overcome. While Acosta has experienced little discrimination in her professional life, she acknowledges that the carving scene can be highly competitive, with little cooperation between professionals. “The world of ham is competitive, especially if you want to go freelance,” she explains. “You have to participate in competitions and build your résumé.”
While the carving scene in Spain remains tough, it is even less competitive outside the country. Eva Maria Garcia, a 37-year-old Spanish woman who now works in London, learned to carve ham only after moving to the UK. She had grown up watching her family carve ham during special occasions but never imagined she would do it professionally. Garcia’s breakthrough came when she was offered the chance to learn the craft at Brindisa, a renowned Spanish deli in London’s Borough Market. She quickly learned the ropes, developing a photographic memory for ham cutting, and today, she is carving at prestigious events such as Royal Ascot and the Spanish Embassy in London.
Garcia, like Acosta, emphasizes the importance of precision when carving. She clarifies the slices, must be cut to the ideal thickness to express the ham’s flavor. The perfect slice should be no thicker than a credit card, allowing the fat to melt upon contact with the tongue and release its creamy, nutty flavors.
The Role of Pata Negra Ham
At the heart of this burgeoning movement is Pata Negra ham, the epitome of Iberian ham. Known for its deep, complex flavors and luxurious texture, Pata Negra ham is made from purebred Iberian pigs that feed exclusively on acorns. This diet gives the ham its characteristic taste, further enhanced by the long curing process which lasts up to three years. Carving this ham requires an expert touch, as each slice must highlight the balance of meat and fat that makes Pata Negra so revered.
The demand for Pata Negra ham has been on the rise, and with it, the demand for skilled carvers. Acosta and Garcia are examples of how the profession evolves, with women carving out a space in a traditionally male-dominated field. The artistry of ham carving is now recognized for its precision, creativity, and the unique touch the carver brings.
Challenges and Triumphs
Despite the growing number of women entering the profession, challenges remain. Maria Reyes Mangue, a 32-year-old woman from Equatorial Guinea, succeeded as a cortadora in Madrid after years of hardship. She moved to Spain at 21 and worked as a waitress before discovering her talent for carving. Although Mangue’s journey to becoming a professional ham carver was fraught with challenges, including the difficulties of being a black woman in a predominantly white and male profession, she persevered and found success. “A black girl slicing ham in front of the public is pretty unusual,” she says, but her unique position has also attracted attention, helping her stand out in the competitive field.
The Future of Ham Carving
As more women enter the field of ham carving, the profession is expected to continue evolving. Female carvers like Acosta, Garcia, and Mangue are breaking down barriers and reshaping the industry. They are proving that women can excel in this traditionally male-dominated role and showing that the artistry of ham carving knows no gender.
The world of Pata Negra ham and Iberian ham carving is changing, and with it, the opportunities for women to make their mark. As the craft continues to gain recognition, it is clear that women will play an increasingly important role in preserving and promoting Spain’s culinary heritage...LEARN MORE
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